Along the coast of the Sea of Japan lies the port city of Otaru. It lies northwest of Sapporo in the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido. At dawn, on our fifth day in Japan, we decided to take a day trip (Otaru Bay Story), some 40-minute drive away. We zipped up and pulled our hoodies over our heads. It was snowing. Soft tiny snowflakes fell on my eyelashes as we...